Some replacement parts need a little extra care than factory pieces,
below are some tips for installation and storage.
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If your mold uses a standard household size A19 bulb, you will want to use a LED bulb or a 25 watt (appliance) bulb with the 3D printed parts.
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If you wish to secure the with screws, you can do so, but you will need to pre-drill (or melt a hole with a pointed soldering iron) the hole(s) for the screw(s).
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Make sure the drill hole is large enough for the screw to slide thru.
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Do not try and create the hole with the screw itself, as doing so can and will cause the part to crack at the screw line.
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If you need to secure the parts with glue, use a plastic glue such as E6000, or most any brand name glue as long as it is labeled as a “Glue for plastics”.
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Make sure the glue you choose states “for plastic”. Do not use a generic “Super Glue”, “CA”, “Crazy Glue” or any glue that can “instantly bonds skin”, as it can (and will) cause a white haze on both the replacement part and the original piece..
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Please DO NOT store replacement parts in an area which can reach temperatures upwards to 100 degrees Fahrenheit as they can warp from the heat.
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The adapters are threaded to a 3/4 inch PVC threaded adapter, available at your local hardware store.
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For the wrap portion it is 3D printed flat, and hand molded to a reindeer.
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If the 4 corners do not set up against your reindeer, please do not try and tighten the corners down with screws, as the plastic part can crack or break when doing do.
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Simply warm the corners you want bent closer to your reindeer with either a heat gun or a hair dryer… the plastic will become pliable, and you can press the corner in with your fingers… (Please wear a leather or oven glove as the plastic will be hot to the touch).
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Hold the corner in until the plastic cools and it will retain its new shape!
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Please note: While many features have been added to the design of these PVC adapters to make them as sturdy as possible, please remember that 3D replacement parts are made of plastic and just like the blow molds themselves can crack or break under stress, not to mention the reindeer itself can still snap/break/crack with the PVC adapter installed on it.
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​Hence, it is highly recommended that if you are using these PVC adapters to elevate your reindeer 3 feet or higher, please consider side supporting of some kind to keep the reindeer from blowing in the wind. The longer the PVC pipe, the more flex it has, and PVC can even snap under some stress conditions, especially 3/4 inch PVC.
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Some “thoughts” for side and PVC pipe supports - feel free to let your imagination run wild and come up with other ideas!!! If you do... I’d love to see what engineered marvels you have designed!
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Fiberglass step-in ground rod next to the reindeer body, with 50 lb. test fishing line tying the reindeer to the rod to keep the wind from blowing the reindeer around.
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Tall rebar rods pounded in the ground which have above ground height no less than 24 inches from the belly of the reindeer, and slip the PVC pipe over the rebar rod.Convert from PVC to Steel threaded 1 in. pipe that does not sway in the wind.
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Create a PVC frame for all the reindeer and loft the frameSlip a length of electrical conduit the same length as the PVC inside the PVC upright to add rigidness.
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Also it is important to note that the threaded adapter should only be tightened “slightly” never try and over seat it into the adapter.
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If you are worried about it coming loose during use, I recommend a pipe thread tape or paste, found in the plumbing department of your local hardware store.
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I do not recommend gluing the threaded PVC adapter on. If you do wish to glue the adapter to your lofting frame, be sure to use a glue that is “For Plastic’s”.
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Whenever possible, please leave the threaded PVC adapter installed during storage.
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Some people have even used a plastic glue or epoxy to help adhere the adapter to the blow mold, but most importantly, don’t forget to screw the adapter in place... with as many screws as feasible to keep the adapter secured in place!
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Please DO NOT store adapters in an area which can reach temperatures upwards to 100 degrees Fahrenheit as they can warp from the heat.
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Replacement flames/lantern tops need a little extra care than factory blow molded flames, below are some tips for use and storage.
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If your candle/lantern uses a standard household size A19 bulb, you will want to use a LED bulb or a 25 watt (appliance) bulb in the 3D printed flame.
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3D printed flames, lantern tops and heads are more fragile than the manufacturers blow molded flame, lantern top or head, so please take care in storing them, to ensure they do not “topple over” and snap the flame, lantern top, or neck off.
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If you wish to secure the flame, lantern top, or head onto the base/body with a screw (or two), you can do so, but you will need to pre-drill (or melt a hole with a pointed soldering iron) the hole(s) for the screw(s).
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Make sure the drill hole is large enough for the screw to slide thru.
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Do not try and create the hole with the screw itself, as doing so can and will cause the flame to crack at the screw line, that crack will ultimately make it’s way all around the flame, lantern top or head. {this is due to how 3D printing works... as it is layers of thin lines of plastic and in hollow parts these lines are the weakest part of the printed parts}
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If the flame you have purchased is a “compression fit” flame, it can be a little more difficult to get on & off (as were the factory versions). If you experience any difficulties in getting the flame on your candlestick, consider warming the candlestick top rim just a bit with a hair dryer. Be careful not to over heat it.
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Please ensure there is no extraneous material on the rim or bump-outs where the flame, Lantern top or head secures to the candle stick, lantern post or body as it can cause them to split.
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Please DO NOT store Flames/Lantern Tops/Heads in an area which can reach temperatures upwards to 100 degrees Fahrenheit as they can warp from the heat.